Copyright © 2009 Masterworks Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: 02/12/11
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2009 Masterworks Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: 02/12/11
 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2009 Masterworks Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: 02/12/11
 

 

 

Copyright © 2009 Masterworks Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: 02/12/11
 

 

Copyright © 2009 Masterworks Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: 02/12/11
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

           

 

Design of Your New Home

a book on the design of new homes

Chapter 7  part 2                                         Oh to Arrange    continued

A few more words:

Time for an interruption. I know I promised we would be on to the good things by now but a little interruption is needed.  In fact if you went through the bubble diagram exercise you may have noticed that other floors of a house as well as garages are important elements. In fact a useable basement and a usable attic can triple the amount of floor area, if conditions are right.  Considering there are a number of points to be made about these it is worth the interruption to dwell now rather the going too far forward.

 

Topics

 

 

 to Basement or Not to Basement                                                                          

Talk to almost any builder and they will sell you on a full basement. While there are certainly many many cases where a full basement is warranted that does not mean you should always do one.  Lets break this down. You have read the Chapters on site planning and design. You now have an idea of some 'Green' issues associated with sloped land.  So let's divide our topic in half; sloped and non sloped sites.  Consider the following points:

Level Sites
  • Any basement space will be fully underground or you must raise the first floor up high enough to allow light and air. 

  • If fully underground do you need an entire floor of space for largely secondary uses; storage and or garage?

  • If the area is half underground does the 4 to 6 feet raised height of the first floor work for you? In your old age? For resale?

  • There is cost associated with a basement. The cost is much less than finished lived in space above but do you need this space? (Lets say for easy numbers an unfinished basement will cost $15 per sq. ft. Notice I said UNFINISHED. If you do a full basement and your next upper floor is 1500 sq.ft. the basement construction will be   $22,500. If you need 1500 sq. ft. of underground unfinished space then this is a good deal.  If not, well ??)

  • Builders want  a full basement rather than a partial basement because It simplifies their administration of construction and helps their profit margin! (laying out a partial basement increases the supervision time of site grading and foundations. Not a big amount compared to  the entire extra cost of a wasted basement space but an item the builder would rather build into their profit).

  • If there are not several feet of permeable soil below the basement floor  and a water table nicely below that -- beware!!

  • See the next section for discussion of garage locations.

Slope Sites

  • Review the Green implications of excavated soil and drainage 'dams' on sloped sites.  (Chapter 5).

  • If impacts are acceptable a full basement is a logical and reasonable depending on  those slope to house width ratios discussed in that chapter.  (If your slope achieves a full story in height less 3 ft. in  the width of the house you have an ideal walk out basement. For example the slope for a house 30 ft wide would need to fall 7 ft (10ft less 3ft) or one in 4 +- feet).

  • If impacts are not attractive then  consider the added cost for a full basement and the possibility of a half basement instead.

  • Consider carefully the uses you put in the 'walk out basement'.  (Principle living space in a walk out basement may prove unattractive).  

  • Also review Chapter 5 for driveway access issues. Driving to the house from below will either require walking upstairs with all the groceries or putting the main living areas downstairs.

  • See the next section for discussion of garage locations.

TIP: Think about  the savings from a full vs a half basement if you turned that savings into upper floor habitable space. Lets do the math: a half basement under a 30 x60 house saves 15 sf x 60 sf x $15 = $13,500. Use of that money as first class upper floor space would allow you at $100/sf a 135 sq ft extra bedroom (10x13ft)).  Where would you prefer that bedroom, down in the basement or on the main living floor?

the Garage -the 1000 lb  Gorilla                                                                                                  

Personally my wife and I think the attached American garage is the worst thing that ever happened to single family houses, especially the smaller more affordable homes. Its one thing to have a large home or an estate with a 3 car garage off to the side or around back, its another to have 3 cars fitted onto a lot for a 2000 sf home. Having a parking lot and 2 car garage sitting in front of your house just is not attractive. Furthermore a garage is hard to handle architecturally. The doors are big and dominate the wall and cost a fortune unless the tacky economy models are used. People then get silly to compensate and try to make the rest of the garage walls look acceptable; bow windows right on down to draperies. So what are the choices? There are about a half dozen ways garages are handled none of them are ideal:

  • Garage level to the main floor, attached to house with doors facing the side yard.

  • Garage level to the main floor, attached to house with doors facing the front yard.

  • Garage level to the main floor, attached to rear of house with driveway from alley or through side yard..

  • Garage level to main floor but unattached. Location varies.

  • Garage embedded under 2nd floor. Locations as above.

  • Garage in the basement. or no garage.

The problem really is rather complicated but the solution was  ironically provided historically and then discontinued with the advent of today's cul de sac  suburb. First for discussion of the problem;  the garage is a multifunctional space and the largest single volume in most houses. Although as listed above many locations are possible the size combined with the function of sheltered loading and unloading convenient to the kitchen is the heart of the challenge.  The instant you access a garage from the front street you have the size (crude and ugly) in tension with solving an important function of getting the car as close to the kitchen as possible and out of the weather.  The photo above shows a perfectly acceptable garage with side access from the front street. Still the long banal wall faces the world. The amount of pavement for 2 car access to a side garage aggravates the problem with a sea of hard surface taking up a significant area of what could be attractive landscaping.  Are there better solutions?

There are good solutions; two as a matter of a fact and the basement (by itself) is not included. (If it was not for the utter tiresome inconvenience of dragging all the groceries up stairs to the kitchen the basement would be first on the solution list). Here are the two and some of the issues involved.

  • The first and I believe best solution is to return to the use of an alley with garages to the rear. After years of disfavor among planners and developers this solution is finally seeing a return in the "New Urbanism" town planning. Not really 'New' it is as many of us can remember the urban solution to convenient storage of the car. There are many reasons for the loss of popularity in the alley garage. Alleys present extra cost to the developer and  fire and sanitation issues for  town officials. Crime was probably the biggest hatchet with dirt and unsightliness close on its heals.  These last two are still at issue. As neighborhoods age alleys do represent a less than ideal   'defensible space'(1). One can only hope the good out way the bad and people buy  cameras. Or go to the second solution.
  • Number two is also a historic one.  While alleys served the city and denser suburbs the larger homes and estates where too spread out for alleys as well as probably looking at them as a less affluent solution. For these folks the Porte Cochere evolved from its horse and buggy roots to provide an often architecturally attractive element for the fronts and sides of the house. . A simple solution. Pull up under cover and unload (guests as well as groceries) pull around to the back and park in the garage. This garage could  then be attached to the house or by a breezeway as preferred. Moreover the banal solid garage mass out front is now a light and airy edifice beckoning comfortable  entry and begging for creative articulation.

Is there a down side though? Unfortunately yes, the same ones as in the horse and buggy days. A larger lot is required to accommodate all the driveway navigation, to say  nothing of the extra cost of the Porte Cochere itself.  Here though we have some good combo permeations that can help save the day. Consider the following alternatives:

  • Build the drop off under the main body of the roof or under a second floor. This will save construction costs by sharing walls and or roof.

  • Place the Porte Cochere at the end of the house where the driveway goes to the garage at the rear.  This arrangement  can be architecturally strong as well as saving money. (Driveway as well as walls/roof).

  • If your land slopes or drainage is favorable, do put the garage in the basement. Use that savings to build a nice Porte Cochere and benefit from the best of both.

There is Gold In the Attic                                                                                                             

Converting the attic was once an American family planning tradition.  It seems to have lost attractiveness for a number of unforeseen reasons. Leave it here to say it can still be a viable solution to a growing family IF several important design matters are attended to when the house is first designed. 

TIP: Even if you find an attic bedroom unattractive think of it this way: It is an economical worse case contingency which you can prudently allow for. Then if nothing else  your resale value might increase. 

At any rate here's what must be done (and not done).

  • Provide a steep roof slope. Design this in 'section' to determine if the width of the converted space is adequate. Remember codes require a minimum head height of 7 ft.

  • Do not use conventional roof truss. Occurring as they do every 2 ft. you will not have the any useable space left.

  • Instead use conventional stick rafters or  a special truss. (see the truss provider for these).

  • Increase the attic floor joist size to at least 2x8s depending on your span distances.

  • Plan your stair location where it can be extended to the attic at a later date. Pay attention to the attic roof heights above the location you choose.

  • You can put in the floor decking, roof insulation and attic finishes at a later date.

  • You can even reuse the 1st floor ceiling insulation to insulate the roof provided you use batts not blow in insulation.

                                                                                                                                                          

Please see the complete book for the following topics :

the Rough Size and Layout

the House Starts Talking-LOUDLY 

 

                                                                                                                                                          

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(1) The term defensible space is from a book specifically about design arrangements which deter or promote crime.  Primarily about urban situations there are numerous useful tips.